In part one of this series, we talked about carnivorous plants that use active traps to capture their prey. Next, we cover another trapping mechanism used by multiple species of predatory plants: passive traps.</p>While the active traps of Venus flytraps, waterwheel and bladderworts capture insects by either snapping shut on them or quickly sucking them in, passive traps do not use any motion to catch their prey.</p>These inactive traps can be further broken down into “pitfall,” “lobster pot,” and “pigeon” traps.</p>Pitfall Traps</strong></h3>Modified leaves are used as individual pitfall traps by many types of pitcher plants, including hardy, tropical, Australian and sun pitchers. Hardy pitcher plants (Sarracenia</em> spp.) can be found growing in nutrient poor bogs throughout the United States and into portions of Canada, while tropical pitcher plants (Nepenthes</em> spp.) are natives of Madagascar, Australia and Southeast Asia. Sun pitchers (Heliamphora </em>spp.) are native to swampy areas on high plateaus in South America, specifically Venezuela, Guayana and northern Brazil. Australian pitcher plants (Cephalotus follicularis</em>) consist of a single species which can be found growing in swamps or alongside streams and creeks in southwestern Australia.</p>Pitfall traps often have a nectar producing portion near the entry of the trap and may also be brightly colored. Both features aid in luring insects. Downward-pointing hairs can often be found inside these traps, which make it easy for insects to crawl in but much more difficult for them to get out. Some of these pitfall traps have liquid in the base which contains digestive fluids produced by the plant. Others do not have a pool of water but exude digestive enzymes once the insects starve in the trap. Some large species of tropical pitcher plants have even been known to draw rodents into their traps!</p>Lobster Pot Traps</strong></h3>One hardy pitcher plant that uses a slightly different passive trapping mechanism is the parrot pitcher plant (Sarracenia psittacina</em>). The method of trapping used by this species is referred to as a “lobster pot” trap and encourages insects to crawl deep into a trap with the lure of nectar. Once inside, the bug is confused by the presence of glassy windows, known as areoles, which allow light into the trap. It cannot find its way out through the darker trap opening and is slowly digested by the plant.</p>California pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica</em>), which are native to a small range in northern California and southern Oregon, also use these types of traps in combination with a pitfall trap. Insects are drawn to the mouth of the trap by the sweet scent of nectar. The pitcher is lined with areoles, which allow light into the trap, confusing the insects. It becomes easier for the bugs to find their way further into the trap then to find a way out through the darker opening, and they eventually reach a portion with slick, downward-pointing hairs—the pitfall portion of the trap. Unfortunately, it is all downhill from there for the insect—both figuratively and literally.</p>Pigeon Traps</strong></h3>The final type of passive trap used by carnivorous plants can be found in the multiple species belonging to the genus Genlisea</em>, commonly referred to as corkscrew plants. Native to Central and South America as well as Africa, these plants grow in aquatic or semi-aquatic habitats and feed mostly on protozoans. Researchers are still studying how prey are drawn into the plants’ traps, but once there, the trap uses a technique also used in pigeon traps. Prey push past inward-pointing hairs as they enter the trap, which prevent them from backing out.</p>At the Gardens, you can see examples of carnivorous plants with passive traps in the terrariums located at the east end of the Orangery. Sun pitchers live in two of these terrariums and hardy pitcher plants are often rotated into the displays during the summer months. A tropical pitcher plant (Nepenthes alata</em>) can be found in the largest terrarium, while other Nepenthes</em> species can be viewed through the glass panels which divide the Orangery from the easternmost greenhouse.</p>In the third and final part of this series</a>, we will examine carnivorous plants that use sticky “flypaper” type traps to capture their prey.</p>
As Halloween draws near, it seems fitting to highlight a group of bloodthirsty plants that lure, capture and devour insects (and sometimes even small mammals) in order to survive in the nutrient-poor soils of their native habitats.</p>These carnivorous plants can be found growing around the world. The trapping mechanisms they use to capture their prey can be divided into three main categories: active, passive and sticky “flypaper” traps.</p>In this series of blog posts, we will take a look at predatory plants that exhibit each of these types of traps along with where they grow in the wild and where you can find them in the gardens.</p>Active Traps</strong></h3>Carnivorous plants that use active “snap” traps to capture their prey include Venus fly traps (Dionaea muscipula</em>) and waterwheel (Aldrovanda</em> vesiculosa</em>).</p>Venus flytraps are the most easily recognizable predatory plants. Their native habitat is limited to a stretch of coastal plains in North Carolina and South Carolina. Trigger hairs are located inside each trap, which lies open waiting for an insect to crawl in. The sweet scent of nectar produced by the plant helps to draw in its unsuspecting prey. Once triggered, the trap closes and digestive enzymes are released to break the insect down into nutrients the plant can use to grow. Once digestion is complete the trap reopens, revealing the remaining exoskeleton of its prey.</p>A waterwheel plant has a trap that is very similar to those of flytraps, but they are submerged in water, much smaller in size and faster in action. They consist of a single species that is distributed around the world in parts of Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia. Its common name is derived from the way the traps are arranged in whorls around a central stem. Tiny aquatic insects trigger the traps to quickly snap shut when they brush against the trigger hairs.</p>Another variation of the active trap is the “suction” mechanism used by the traps of Utricularia</em> species - commonly known as bladderworts. These remarkable carnivorous plants can be found in both terrestrial and aquatic habitats around the world. In terrestrial species, the tiny traps are located in the soil around the plant. These traps have trigger hairs located at the mouth of each trap which are activated when an insect brushes against them. Aquatic species also have traps which are activated when insects swim by and brush the trigger hairs. Bladderworts are the fastest acting of any carnivorous plants, taking less than a millisecond to suck in their prey.</p>Venus flytraps</strong> can be found in a large terrarium located at the east end of the Orangery. Be sure to stop by to take a peek at them as you visit our Fiendish Flora</em> exhibit in the Orangery, which features natural and manmade plant mutations.</li>Terrestrial and aquatic bladderworts</strong> can be viewed on some Free Days at the Carnivorous Plant Education table.</li>We hope to add waterwheel</strong> to our plant collections in the near future!</li></ul>In the next blog post of this series</a>, we will explore carnivorous plant species that use passive traps to lure, capture and devour their creepy, crawly victims.</p>
</p> With only a few days to go before Glow at the Gardens</a>™, we are eagerly awaiting the nights that our pumpkin sculptures will come to life. And we’re not the only ones: jack-o-lantern events are becoming increasingly popular, popping up in more and more cities all over the country. Most of these events, however, share one common trait: their elaborate sculptures are created using fake pumpkins, or “funkins.” But not Denver Botanic Gardens! For each night of the event, every pumpkin we use is the real deal. We’re proud of our pumpkin realness, but we must admit, they do present us with some interesting challenges.</p> Where Do We Get Them?</strong></p> It’s harder than you may think to find 3,000 pumpkins that are about the same size, are fully ripe at the same time, and can be delivered to the middle of Denver during peak pumpkin harvest season. Each year of Glow at the Gardens, we’ve worked with local growers to stake our claim on pumpkins early in the summer. Then we just cross our fingers and hope that hail storms, insects, bears and drought will let them reach maturity by the time we need them!</p> Where Do We Put Them? </strong></p> Once the pumpkins arrive onsite, we work quickly to store them in areas that offer them some protection against the weather. Since October in Colorado can feature wild swings in temperature and precipitation, we want to be ready for anything. However, even if weather wasn’t a factor, finding places to store 75 pallets of pumpkins is no small feat during what has become one of the busiest seasons at the Gardens.</p> Carving on a Clock</strong></p> While funkins can be carved weeks, months, even years in advance and stored for future use, carving real pumpkins is a different ballgame. To make sure the pumpkins will still be in good condition for two nights of the event, our team only has two and a half days to get all the pumpkins washed, gutted, carved and displayed.</p> Variation – Not Necessarily Helpful</strong></p> Harvesting fresh pumpkins means you never quite know what you’re going to get. If pumpkins are too green, they are too hard to cut; if they are too ripe, they turn to mush as soon as they are carved. Also, designing armatures to hold pumpkins can be challenging when you don’t know exactly what shape will show up on delivery day.</p> Pumpkins are Heavy!</strong></p> Because real pumpkins are far heavier than foam ones, we must carefully think through the structural integrity of the armatures that form the base of each sculpture. The last thing we want to see is a sculpture with pumpkins tumbling off of it!</p> Squirrels</strong></p> Those little creatures just love October at York Street. It seems that there is nothing more enticing to our squirrels than the exposed flesh of freshly carved jack-o-lanterns! We frequently have to replace jack-o-lanterns just hours after they have been displayed because, well, the squirrels gnaw and nibble through their faces.</p> Ephemeral Art</strong></p> Like a bouquet of fresh flowers, a pumpkin sculpture is at its prime for just a couple of days before nature takes its toll. As the jack-o-lanterns begin to shrivel and decay, the designs that have been carved into them morph and fade.</p> Our goal for Glow at the Gardens is not only to provide an incredible Halloween experience, but also to push the very boundaries of pumpkin carving. Could we have more displays if we used funkins? Sure. Would we be able to carve them farther in advance and reduce the hustle and bustle of the days leading up to the event? Absolutely. But the Gardens’ mission is to connect people with plants: what better way to do so than by designing and carving the fruit of the most popular plant of the season? </p> Glow at the Gardens is open October 17, 18, 23, 24 and 25. Tickets are extremely limited and are expected to sell out. </strong>Purchase tickets online</strong></a> or at the Bonfils-Stanton Visitor Center at 1007 York Street. </strong></p>
We often think about the rose as a focal point of gardens in spring and summer, however sometimes we forget that late summer and early fall are some of the best times to enjoy their great displays of flowers, even though they are not blooming as prolifically as they do in the spring.</p> Under our harsh mid-summer weather conditions, hot temperatures, dryness and the stress of strong sunlight, the colors of the flowers may fade. And the Japanese beetles feast on our roses from late spring to mid-summer, causing damage to some of the blooms. The absence of these conditions can make later in the summer a delightful time to see the roses!</p> During the cooler weather in early fall (especially morning and evening), the color of the flowers intensifies as it is meant to do. When our horticulturists identify a rose by its flowers, fall is the best season to do so.</p> Some of the more popular modern roses we see in the Gardens today are shrub roses, such as Floribunda, English rose and hardy Canadian rose. They were cultivated to have a longer blooming season from spring to fall, a greater variety of colors and compact sizes, and cold hardiness and disease resistance habits. These better accommodate our sustainable ways of Western gardening.</p> Be sure to see the displays of roses in the Ellipse garden and the Romantic Gardens on your next visit.</p>
Annual Flowers Curiosities of the Gardens</h3> August, during the "dog days" of summer, is the perfect time to view all the fantastic annuals at Denver Botanic Gardens. During this time, annual flowers are at their peak, revealing their mature height and showy blossoms. This walking tour highlights some of the more unusual annuals the Gardens has to offer. These plants’ strange and odd qualities rival any shockingly bright blossom of a traditional annual flower.</p> Begin your walking tour at the lowest point in the Sensory Garden. Near the tranquil water feature, you will see a living wall that is planted with an array of plant delights. In these wooly pockets that allow one to plant vertically, you will find a peculiar annual flower. This yellow button-shaped blossom has a red spot on the top giving it the common name of eyeball plant. </em>What’s curious about this plant, Acmella oleracea</em>, is when the flower or leaves are chewed, it causes numbness in the mouth, and a tingling sensation on the tongue. It is an herbal remedy to treat toothaches, giving it another common name, toothache plant.</p> Look just below the row of toothache plants and rest your eyes on a pink powder-puff shaped flower. Something unexpected happens when you touch the green compound leaves of sensitive plant, or Mimosa pudica. </em>Also known as touch-me-not, it becomes “alive” and closes its leaves over the stem. This almost extraterrestrial movement is an example of plant adaptation to protect itself from environmental harm or from predators.</p> Now walk westward and find yourself outside on the plaza of Marnie’s Pavilion. Continue to walk west and find the walkway lined with citrus trees. Here the West Terrace planters are adorned with an annual flower display of warm tones of orange, burgundy and russet. Here you will find a bizarre specimen plant with jagged, silvery-green leaves holding bright orange spikes decorated with purple flowers. This Madagascar native is called Solanum pyracanthum, </em>or devil’s thorn. Its freakish display of armor reveals in the language of plants that it is poisonous.</p> Towards the northwest end of the planter, you will find a trailing vine with small insignificant white flowers. Cardiospermum halicacabum, </em>or love-in-a-puff, holds a secret surprise inside its papery round lanterns. Inside are three, dark bean-like seeds with a white heart-shaped spot on the top. The genus name Cardiospermum </em>is derived from the Greek language meaning “heart shaped”.</p> Now turn to the east and double back to end your walking tour at the Science Pyramid. Flanking the main entrance on the east side are clusters of container plantings full of wild and avant-garde annual flowers. It’s easy to spot the dark purple, almost comical inflorescence of Amarnthus tricolor, </em>also known by its common name elephant head amaranth. The flower head resembles an elephant with a protruding trunk. This modern day fetish for fertility, phallic in form, is said to bring quick pregnancy to a bride if carried in her wedding bouquet. Juxtaposed to the towering elephant head amaranth is A. caudatus </em>‘Dreadlocks.’ The exceptional inflorescence of this amaranth is aptly named as its fuzzy pink dreadlocks cascade to the ground.</p> These are just a small sample of the remarkable and unfamiliar annuals planted at Denver Botanic Gardens. These more obscure varieties are just waiting to be discovered. Perhaps you’ve been inspired to create your own garden of curiosities for next season.</p>
Many medicinal plants are easy to grow in Colorado and have incredible healing properties. Horticulturist Blake Burger and horticulture intern Kenna Castleberry pick their top 10 to grow at home.</p>Calendula</strong> (Calendula officinalis)</strong></em> </h2>This flower has anti-inflammatory properties and triterpenoid compounds, which inhibit bacteria. Calendula </em>also has antispasmodic, astringent, antiseptic and detoxifying properties. Ingested, it helps stomach ailments such as gastritis, peptic ulcers, regional ileitis and colitis. It can also be extremely cleansing for the liver. You can use the flowers in tea, oil infusions, or in salves to help with internal and external ailments. Growing tips from staff horticulturalist Blake Burger: Calendula can be started indoors in the spring rather easily. Start inside 6 weeks before last frost and make sure to provide a sunny location for the seedlings to thrive. Plant in full sun after the danger of frost has subsided. To encourage growth throughout the season, fertilize and deadhead.</p>Chamomile (</strong>Matricaria chamomilla</strong></em>)</strong></h2>Chamomile can be taken internally as tea for minor digestive problems. Chamomile can be used as an aromatic, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, carminative (digestive aid), and de-stressing nervine. Externally it has been used in hair wash, hair dyes, and for sore skin or eczema. Chamomile is probably the most well-known plant used as a nervine tonic, helping to relieve stress and tension. An essential oil made from the chamomile flowers has been used to help cure diaper rash in newborns. Growing tips from Heather Rhoades of Gardening Know How blog: Plant the chamomile (seeds or cuttings) in the spring. You can grow chamomile in places that have partial shade to full sun. Chamomile does not need a lot of water, so the soil should be mostly dry.</p>Peppermint (</strong>Metha </strong></em>x </strong>piperita</strong></em>)</strong></h2>Because peppermint is antimicrobial, hikers chew peppermint while drinking from a stream to kill microbes in the water. Peppermint is considered a choleretic (bile secretor), antiseptic and invigorator. Tea made from peppermint leaves is soothing for a sore throat, cough, cold. Growth tips from staff horticulturalist Blake Berger: Peppermint prefers a sunny location and moist soil, although it can tolerate part shade. Planting peppermint in a sunny location will increase its production of oils and therefore increase its medicinal potency. Although garden mints have the reputation as an aggressive grower, peppermint isn’t as invasive as some of its relatives. Harvest peppermint leaves and stems often to encourage compact growth. It is ideal to harvest the leaves before and during flowering.</p>Holy Basil</strong> (Ocimum tenuiflorum)</strong></em></h2>Indigenous to India, holy basil is a mild antihyperglycemic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and expectorant. It can be taken internally as tea and is good for treating diabetes, cold or cough symptoms. Internally holy basil can help in treating intestinal tract problems, as well as asthma and reducing fevers. The juice from this plant can be extracted and applied to insect stings, ringworm, and other skin ailments. Growing tips from University of California: Plant in full sun in ¼ inches deep of holes. Keep soil moist but avoid overwatering. Harvest before the plant flowers to avoid flowering and more holy basil growing. This plant continues to grow and flower, so much maintenance is needed. </p>Plantain (</strong>Plantago major</strong></em>)</strong></h2>In Colorado, common plantain is considered a weed. Medicinally, plantain has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antimicrobial, emollient and wound-healing properties. Plantain has vitamins A, C, K. You can eat the leaves raw, as they’re more nutritious than other greens and taste similar to swiss chard. However, cooking the leaves will help improve their texture. The leaves can be used externally as poultices to treat insect bites, snakebites, sunburns and cuts. Plantain can also be taken internally as a tea and helps with cold symptoms. Growing tips from Amy Grant of Gardening Know How blog: Plant plantains in sunny areas. Plantains love moist soil, so water without overwatering. Keep plantains about 4 to 6 inches apart. Cover the plant during cold spells to avoid any damage. </p>Hyssop (</strong>Hyssopus officinalis</strong></em>)</strong></h2>Hyssop has astringent, emmenagogue (stimulating menstrual flow), relaxant, diuretic, and wound-healing properties. It stimulates mucus production, and is helpful in soothing sore throats, and coughs. It has also been known to help against asthma. Because it also relaxes muscle, it is helpful in aiding digestive problems. Its antibacterial properties make hyssop a good vermifuge (expels intestinal parasites). Hyssop essential oil has medicinal properties, but has also been linked to epileptic seizures, and should be taken with precaution. Growth tips staff horticulturist Loddie Dolinski: This plant is pretty hardy and doesn’t need too much water. Once it’s been established it merely needs normal watering. It should be grown in full sun. Hyssop gets no pests after it’s grown.</p>English Lavender (</strong>Lavandula angustifolia </strong></em>“Vera”)</strong></h2>Lavender has analgesic (pain relieving), antidepressant, antifungal, antioxidant, antiviral, aromatic, cholagogue (something that stimulates the flow of bile from the liver) and cicatrisant (wound healing) properties, as well as many others. It also acts as an effective sleep aid and can be combined with valerian or chamomile in tea, or merely sprinkled onto the sheets as lavender oil, or dried flowers can be sewn into a pillow. Lavender is also powerful at curing headaches. Growth tips from staff horticulturalist Angie Andrade: lavender angustifolia </em>or English Lavender prefers full sun and slightly alkaline soils which is perfect for our Colorado gardens. Be careful when buying Lavender because French and Spanish Lavender are not hardy here. </p>Hops </strong>(Humulus lupulus)</strong></em></h2>Hops is known to have soporific, anti-spasmodic, diuretic, and nervine properties. The bitter properties of hops stimulate digestion. Hops has estrogenic properties and shouldn’t be given to young children. The cones can promote good night’s sleep. Growth tips from Blake Berger: Plant a rhizome rather than growing from seed. A hops rhizome should be planted in early spring when the soil can be worked. Keep the rhizome moist but not in boggy soil. Once sprouts rise from the soil, pick the strongest and healthiest and start to train up a trellis. Cut back the weaker ones. Once established, water several times a week. Keep the base of the plant relatively thinned out to prevent powdery mildew.</p>Hawthorn </strong>(Crataegus ambigua)</strong></em></h2>The bark has astringent properties which helps in treating fevers. Hawthorn’s an antispasmodic, cardiac (promotes heart health), diuretic and vasodilator. Hawthorn can help fight heart weakness, spasms, and murmurs. It also balances blood pressure and can be a sedative on the nervous system. Growing tips from staff bonsai specialist Larry Jackel: Hawthorn is vulnerable to fireblight, so prune in the winter, sterilizing the tools between uses. You can grow these from seeds or cuttings. The berries are known to germinate quite quickly. Once the plants have been established, only basic maintenance is needed as hawthorns are hardy. Hawthorns are known to have extra sprouts around the base of the tree, so you can either remove those or have them sprout into separate plants.</p>Elecampane </strong>(Inula helenium)</strong></em></h2>Elecampane is a tall bushy-like plant that gives height to any garden. It has beautiful sunflower-like flowers that attract all sorts of pollinators. Medicinally, elecampane has expectorant, choleretic, cholagogue, antimicrobial, vermifuge and diuretic properties. It can be taken internally as a tea, made from the root to treat colds, coughs, asthma, loss of appetite, intestinal worm and digestive problems. Decoctions and tinctures are also made from the root and can help treat cold and cough symptoms. Elecampane can be applied externally to help with skin ailments such as eczema and itching. Growing tips from Growing Hermione’s Garden blog: Grow this plant in partial sun with moist, well drained-soil. Minimal maintenance is needed for this plant. It is a perennial. </p>
One of the most frequent questions I get around this time of year is “what is growing on my leaves?” while being handed a hackberry leaf with knobs on the back. These knobs are galls – abnormal growths on leaves and stems with a number of different causes, mainly insects and diseases.</p> In the case of the hackberry</a> knobs, these are hackberry nipple galls caused by a psyllid – a tiny plant-feeding insect. The galls themselves are a plant response to the feeding of the larvae, forming a protective covering over the insect as it matures. Fortunately, this psyllid doesn’t affect the tree dramatically, just makes it unsightly. While control is possible, it is challenging and impractical.</p> Most galls are formed by an increase of hormones stimulating cell growth. When bacteria, viruses or fungi enter the plant, the response is to “seal off” the area with a mass of cells, forming a gall. With insects and mites, the response is similar, though the insect is often encased in the gall until it emerges.</p> Insect-based galls are challenging to deal with, as the galls typically protect the insect until they emerge as adults and fly away. With most disease-borne galls, the best management strategy is to collect and remove the leaves from beneath the infested plant in the fall. Doing this helps break the disease cycle. Since galls typically do not cause massive damage to the tree, pruning to remove the unsightly growths is probably the most efficient method of control.</p> All in all, galls are nothing to be concerned about. They are simply the plant trying to defend itself from an invader.</p>
</p>It’s the peak of summer here at our York Street location, and we are heading into the busiest weeks of the annual Summer Concert Series</a>. Even for seasoned Denver concert-goers, there’s no venue in town quite like the Gardens. With somewhat unique restrictions on what you can bring, what you can’t bring, and what your evening will look like, we want to share with you our best tips for ensuring your concert experience is a comfortable one.</p>BYOB</strong>Perhaps the most dramatic difference between the Gardens and other local concert venues is that we do not sell alcohol onsite. However, you are welcome to bring your own! Concert-goers can bring their own beer, wine and other alcoholic beverages (coolers are permitted, as well). Of course, we always recommend drinking in moderation, so if you are arriving by car, make sure you designate a sober driver!</p>Bring short chairs, or just rent or buy one of ours</strong>To provide a great viewing experience for all our guests, we do not permit any chairs with a total height taller than 28” inside the property. Alternately, if you don’t want to mess with dragging your own chairs along, stop by the bright green chair rental tent at the north end of the UMB Bank Amphitheater tent and rent one from us for $10. This year, we also have some chairs for sale for $70 + tax. Don’t wait too long though – we often sell out before the concert begins.</p>Know what you can bring, and what you can’t</strong>We want you to have a leisurely evening with lots of creature comforts, but we do prohibit some items from entering the Gardens on a concert date to ensure a pleasant experience for everyone. As part of our commitment to safety, every bag, cooler and wagon will be screened upon entry. Prohibited items may be confiscated, so we recommend leaving those at home to begin with. Here is a list of accepted and prohibited items</a>. </p>Want a prime seat? Get in line early. </strong>While the gates open at approximately 5:45 p.m., guests who are eager for a prime seating location often line up hours earlier. While we think there isn’t really a bad seat in the house, we suggest arriving early with a book or a knitting project if a front-and-center seat is what you have in mind.</p>Try Anna’s Overlook for spacious seating</strong>On the other hand, if you’d rather not squash into the UMB Bank Amphitheater with hundreds of strangers, the grassy slope west of the Science Pyramid offers excellent sound and plenty of space to spread out. You may not see the performers, but you’ll hear their serenades just fine.</p>Order a picnic dinner in advance</strong>Both Offshoots Café and the Hive Garden Bistro are open for dinner</a> each concert evening. You can also visit the new hot dog cart</strong> in Oak Grove. If you’d rather not wait for your food during the concert, pre-order a Summer Picnic Box</a>. </p>Dress for success</strong>Our concerts go on rain or shine, so make sure you check the weather in advance. Ponchos, sunscreen, sunglasses, hats, blankets, sweaters, jackets – we usually see them all in the course of a concert season.</p>Severe weather threats</strong>The Gardens will be evacuated when lightning, hail, high winds or other severe weather threats are in the immediate vicinity, and the show will be delayed/stopped until the threat of severe weather has cleared. A banner alert will be posted on this website with updates, and staff will communicate via bullhorns to keep concert-goers informed. We thank you for your participation in keeping everyone safe! </p>Take in your surroundings</strong>Feel free to wander the Gardens as you like throughout the concert. The Summer Concert Series is not just about incredible musical talent; it’s about showcasing it in the spectacular setting of a horticultural wonderland. Many of our gardens are in peak bloom, and you may be lucky enough to catch a breathtaking sunset while you’re here!</p>Learn everything you need to know about attending a concert at the Gardens on this Plan Your Visit page</a>.</p> </p>
